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Kebabs, Fragrant Biryani along with a World More: A Historic Indian City Gains Recognition on UNESCO's Gastronomy List.

Biryani being prepared via the classic Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is simmered on a gentle, slow heat, with the vessel's cover securely closed with a paste of flour.

Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.

The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.

An International Accolade

Recently, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".

The recognition "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.

Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.

A City Defined by Food

The honor for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".

With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled love for food.

"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
Succulent kebabs on a plate
Lucknow is celebrated for its succulent kebabs.

A Royal Culinary Legacy

The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.

These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.

It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.

But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.

A Diverse Culinary Landscape

Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.

The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.

Frothy dessert Makkhan Malai
The city showcases special treats for the season, such as Makkhan Malai, a unique cloud-like dessert, during winter months.

Time-Tested Food Joints

Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.

In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.

To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Famous tea stall offering masala chai
A legendary tea stall is known for its milky spiced tea.

Preserving Tradition for the Future

The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.

On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their children do not want to learn the skill.

A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.

The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.

The writer

Cesar Mcintyre

A cultural critic and sociologist with a passion for exploring how societal shifts impact everyday life and personal identity.

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